UPDATE: Links to all items updated Feb 08 2020 and added budget-friendly pre-built burner choice.

DIY Parts List:

1-1/4” Coupling

1-1/4” x 3/4” Bushing

3/4” x 9” Nipple

1-1/2” x 3/4” Reducer

Everflow BMRC1122 1-1/2 X 3/4″ Black Malleable Iron Reducing Coupling

• Fitting with 1-1/2 x 3/4 female threaded connects

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Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

.023” MIG Tip

1/8” Brass “T”

1/8” x 3” Brass Nipple x2

1/8” Brass End Caps

1/8” x 3” Lamp Nipple

1/4” x 1/8” Brass Bushing

1/4 Inch Ball Valve

1/4” Hose Barb

1/4”-5/8” Hose Clamp

Stainless Hose Clamp, 10-Pack

• Band, housing, and screw are all stainless steel
• SAE Size: 4

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Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

0-40psi Gas Regulator & Hose

3/16” x 2” x 48” aluminum stock

JB KwikWeld

High Temp Gas Line Thread Seal Tape

Tools/Bits:

M6 Tap

5mm Drill Bit

1/8” NPT Tap

File

Hack Saw

​Drill

Here is the video once more if you need to take a look at the assembly process again.

Check this out if you are looking for how to make a propane torch burn hotter or other options for a forge burner that you don’t have to build. 

https://daddystayshome.com/how-to-make-a-propane-torch-burn-hotter/

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What to Know About Honing a Knife

A knife is a must-have tool in the kitchen. Made in a range of styles and sizes and extremely versatile, different knives serve various purposes, including delicately filleting fish, tearing apart a chicken, and chiffonading basil. 

If you do know how to properly use and take care of knives, a quality knife can last for years and make it so much easier to prepare your meals. One vital inspect of regular knife care and maintenance is to keep your knives sharp through sharpening and honing (more on that later). 

So why is a sharp knife important?

Having a sharper knife gets your job done faster as it’s more effortless to cut through ingredients. Sharpness ensures more accurate cuts, which will also maintain the consistency of your cooking. If your vegetables are of the same size, they’ll take the same time to cook and will cook more evenly. And if you’re cutting fat off meat, a more accurate cut will get you as much useful meat as possible.

When skinning fish, it also helps to have a sharp knife as a dull one makes it doubly difficult to get precise cuts on the fillet. And when you’re cutting vegetables, you’ll lose less pulp and juice to the cutting board if you use a sharp knife. When serving greens, this will ensure you get the most of out your vegetables, both in terms of quantity and nutritional value.

A sharp knife also means less strain on your back, arms, and hands. Using extra energy—in what might be several hours of standing—can tire even the most experienced chefs. Your safety is also at stake. A dull knife can easily slip as you push it down harder, which may cause an accident. In addition, cuts from a duller knife are likely to be more severe than those from a sharper knife. 

Taking your time to ensure your knives are sharp and good to go makes practical sense. However, even experienced cooks (home-taught or professional) might have no idea of how to correctly keep their knives sharp. To properly maintain your kitchen knife, one important thing is to differentiate between sharpening and honing.

Honing vs. sharpening 

Most people mistake honing a knife for sharpening it. In most cases, honing steel is frequently seen as sharpening steel. So how does honing differ from sharpening?

To know the difference, it’s important to first to know how and why knives get dull. In dull knives, the blade’s sharp edge isn’t there anymore or the edge’s metal is no longer properly aligned because of use. Even if the blade’s edge remains sharp, a loss of the edge’s alignment means it won’t properly cut through food. 

So how does a knife get that alignment and sharp edge back? This is where sharpening and honing come in:

Sharpening

Sharpening grinds and shaves off bits of metal from the blade to create a sharp, new edge. It may be done with various tools, including a whetstone, water stone, or large electric knife sharpener.

Unlike honing, sharpening may be carried out less frequently—only a handful of times yearly depending on how frequently the knife is used. With training, suitable sharpening stones, and patience, you can carry out basic knife sharpening at home. 

For best results, there’s no better way to do it than to let highly skilled professionals sharpen your knives with their professional grade tools. Professional sharpening will make your knife last longer, more fun to work with, and can fix broken tips, dents, and even a bent knife. 

Honing 

Honing is essentially maintaining an edge that’s already sharp. In the honing process, honing steel or home pull-through knife sharpener simply pushes the knife’s edge back to the middle and straightens it. Honing fixes the edge without getting rid of too much blade material. It doesn’t actually sharpen a knife but if you do it properly, your knife will appear sharper as the blade’s now in the right position. 

Honing should be carried out more often and can be easily done at home. Ideally, you should hone your knife before each use. 

When to sharpen and hone your knife

Sharpening basically cuts into a knife to achieve the preferred angle, so it’ll leave some debris behind. Sharpening is very efficient and, if done properly, long-lasting. In fact, your knife may only need sharpening a few times per year. 

Honing realigns the edge of the blade without getting rid of material. This helps to maintain the sharpness of the blade for food preparation tasks. You can certainly hone your knives as many times as you want. 

If you cook a lot, you may choose to hone your knife every time you use it. Then again, if you cook less frequently, you many only hone your knife every few weeks to months.

The bottom line

Honing, which refers to straightening a crooked cutting edge, is the simplest way to make sure your knives work well for a long time. The more often you hone your knives, the less often you need to sharpen them. That means the knives will work efficiently and last for many years to come.

References:

https://daddystayshome.com/what-are-the-different-types-of-sharpening-stones/

https://daddystayshome.com/what-is-a-scandi-grind/

https://daddystayshome.com/what-is-a-hollow-grind/

https://www.thedailybeast.com/guide-to-knife-sharpening-and-honing-both-electric-and-handheld?ref=scroll

https://knifeaid.com/blogs/knife-mastery/honed-vs-sharpened-knives

The grind is essentially the heart of a blade.

In other words, it refers to the manner in which a blade is cut to ready it for sharpening and polishing. The grind is the functioning part of your knife for most of its jobs and determines how well the knife will cut and even retain sharpness. 

There are many kinds of grinds out there, including the hollow grind, full flat grind, chisel grind, sabre grind, convex grind, and scandi grind. Of course, all of these types of edges come with their own unique features, but in this piece, we’re going to take a more detailed look at a hollow grind.

Understanding a hollow grind

As the name already suggests, a hollow grind is actually hollow. It’s quite a common grind for many knife blades. Blades with a hollow grind offer great cutting qualities and more flexibility than blades with other types of grind. 

A hollow ground knife blade is one that’s been ground to create a distinct bevelled, concave edge along the knife’s cutting edge. This effect is achieved by having the grind start below the middle of the knife, producing a small concave wedge that’s very sharp and easy to maintain. Many mass-produced knives have hollow ground blades, as they’re also easy to manufacture and customers prefer knives that are easy to sharpen.

When making a hollow ground blade, a grinding wheel cuts a convex scoop from the blade. The knife’s cutting edge is found at the base of the scoop, and it’s very fine and therefore extremely sharp. 

In cross section view, the blade almost looks like an old-school fountain pen nib, with a soft, fluted base and strong upper section. The secondary bevel is easily gripped with a sharpening stone, making sharpening super easy.

dcknives.blogspot.com

Hollow grind blades are perfect for soft, thin materials. They shouldn’t be used for tough materials with larger diameters. Hollow ground blades were traditionally used for scissors and straight razors. Today, this blade type is mainly found in kitchen knives, as well as outdoor and hunting knives.

If you want your knife to slice really well, but don’t want it to get too deep, a hollow grind will do the job superbly. Dressing your game needs a knife with excellent slicing to take off the skin. For this reason, hollow ground blades are common on hunting as well as skinning knives.

Picking a hollow ground blade

When selecting a knife, you should go for one with a strong blade made from a high-quality metal. If you can, go to the store personally so you can pick up the knife and see how it feels. 

Make sure the handle feels comfortable in your hand and the knife is balanced when held. An awkward, cumbersome blade won’t be fun or easy to work with. 

Of course, a hollow grind isn’t without downsides. The thinner edge may roll over or chip with hard use. Also, it can have trouble cutting food owing to the concave scoops taken out of the blade. These hollowed out parts can create suction on occasion, making deep cuts a bit harder.

How to sharpen a hollow ground blade

You can sharpen a hollow ground with ease. 

Straight razors have a hollow grind. They’ve always been sharpened on a leather strop, with the help of abrasive stropping compound. The majority of hollow grind knives made today feature a secondary V-shaped bevel at the cutting edge. Therefore, they can be sharpened with a sharpening stone, or with a sharpening system. A hollow-ground knife can be incredibly sharp, but it can greatly benefit from a bit of stropping.

Sharpening the edge of your knife with a grinding wheel will produce a hollow grind. As there’s little material behind the edge, it’s less durable (although how long the edge can last is debatable).

A straight razor (for shaving) features a hollow grind. It has an extremely delicate edge, but it doesn’t need a durable edge due to its use. A hollow grind means metal is only removed at the secondary cutting edge, as well as at the spine to a lesser degree. 

As a hollow grind assumes the shape of the outer diameter of the grinding wheel that sharpened it, different diameters of wheel will produce a less or more hollow grind. In other words, a large wheel creates an extremely shallow hollow grind while a small wheel creates a more prominent hollow grind.  

If you are interested in trying to create a hollow grind in your own knife you should check out this calculator that allows you to put in the diameter of the wheel you are sharpening on and the thickness of your material to get the exact height of the grind to make a perfect hollow ground edge.

Is the hollow grind right for you?

To wrap up, different jobs require different blade grinds. If you’re trying to pick out a blade grind, consider what it’ll be used for most to know which knife grind will suit your needs best.

To most people, a knife is made up of 2 parts: a handle and a blade. Most people view a knife in this simplistic way, but to know your knife even better, you need to understand how each part of your knife determines how it’s used.

The grind is one of the most forgotten characteristics of a knife. It’s referring to how the blade’s thinned to show the cutting edge or the shape of the blade’s cross-section. Believe you me, the kind of grind your knife has changes the entire behaviour of the blade. 

As such, it’s important to know the various edges on knives to better understand how to look after your knife and how to get the most out of it.

While the most common kinds of knife grinds include flat, hollow, convex, double-devel, chisel, and Scandi grind. The main focus of this post is the Scandi grind.

So… What’s a Scandi Grind?

The Scandi grind is also called the Scandinavian or Sabre grind and refers to a form of flat grind. It’s also sometimes known as a V-grind. 

As the V-grind name implies the Scandi grind is V-shaped, but the angle doesn’t fully go up to the spine. There’s a bevel partway all the way down the blade instead. So, a good chunk of the blade has a similar thickness to the spine. 

As the name suggests, the Scandi grind originated from Scandinavia. It’s commonly seen in hunting knives, bushcraft knives, and outdoor knives. In fact, the Scandi grind is one huge secondary edge, minus any extra frills like curves or scallops seen in other knives.

The Scandi grind is practical in that you can sharpen it with ease and it’s easy to produce. Moreover, it’s perfect for woodworking. As the blade is quite thick, it’s unbelievably strong and can certainly handle a fair bit of cutting.

In addition, due to the huge, wide edge, you’ll be able to see everything you’re doing while using it. 

If you’ve made a mistake, you’ll immediately be able to tell if you look at the wide edge. If you’ve chipped the edge, you’ll need to get rid of plenty of material to sort out the mistake. 

Sharpening the Scandi grind

To sharpen the Scandi grind by hand, place the bevel flat to the sharpening stone and work on the whole edge. Initially, it doesn’t matter what kind of motion you apply, so long as the bevel stays flat. Since the bevel on scandi grind knives is so large and flat it is pretty easy to get the right angle for sharpening.

Work the edge until you feel a small burr while you run your fingertip off the cutting edge on the opposite side. You want a burr along the entire edge. Once you’ve created a burr along the whole length of the cutting edge, turn your knife over and start the same process on the other side. 

Once you’re able to feel the burr along the entire length of the first side, you’ve created the edge. Now you need to get rid of the burr. Lightly stroke the blade over the sharpening stone as though you’re removing slices from the surface. 

At this juncture, you should move in a single direction only, beginning with the edge, as though you’re cutting the stone. Make sure the bevel stays flat. Switch between sides, moving the burr backward and forward, until it’s properly honed. Finish up on a strop.

Is your blade badly nicked or very dull? If so, you may want to begin with a medium to coarse stone to get rid of the nicks. Then go for the fine stone. Based on your use, it might be wise to repeat the process with diamond plates or finer stone grades. 

How to sharpen the belly

After a few minutes, sharpening the flat blade area will begin to feel familiar. After that, you need to sharpen the curved edge area—the belly. Many people dread this task. After all, it’ll be a bit more difficult to maintain the correct angle.

But it’s totally not impossible. Many people make the mistake of turning the knife over to a 45-degree angle against the stone to address that curved area. That’s usually not the simplest method. We suggest you just lift the handle.

Once you do that and maintain the stone’s surface level, you’ll roll towards the belly by yourself. Repeat the process and occasionally ensure you’re sharpening along the whole cutting edge. This insight sometimes surprises even those who’ve been sharpening a long time and never knew this trick.

Summary what is the scandi grind most useful for?

We’ll always need knives as long as we live. Whether it’s kitchen knives, camping knives, hunting knives, military knives, machetes, or axes, we’ll always have things to cut. We cut food, cut boxes and ropes, chisel stone and wood, and clear bushes that have overgrown on our yards. 

The type of grind and task at hand will determine the right blade for your job. Consider two things—the purpose of your knife along with the level of maintenance you want to give it. When you’ve figured that out, you can then choose the right grind for the job at hand. 

For basic tasks or use in places where they might take a lot of abuse and need to be field sharpened a scandi grind is a great option.

This style of knife was the first I tackled when I started making knives in my home forge. Mostly because they are robust and the bevel is not a complex shape to create and simple to sharpen on a stone

Types of sharpening stones

Like so many others who get into blacksmithing, I’m interested in making knives by hand. I’m just starting the whole (very complicated) process of learning with the goal to make a set of kitchen knives for myself since I love to cook and do most of it being a stay at home dad.

Knives play a critical role when it comes to food preparation. But as you use your knife over and over, the blade dulls and the edges chip away. Dull blades are dangerous because you generally need to apply more pressure when cutting and if/when a slip happens the cut can be far worse than the light nick from a razor-sharp knife moving with almost no force. So to keep your knives safe, you need to sharpen them regularly with a sharpening stone, also called a whetstone.

Whether you’re a housewife, househusband, a chef, or a camping buff, a sharpening stone will make your work so much easier and enjoyable. But not all sharpening stones are good for your knife or whatever blade you use. In fact, there are 4 main kinds of sharpening stones on the market today, namely water stones, oil stones, ceramic stones, and diamond stones.

Sharpening stones are available in different materials, sizes, and shapes. They may be flat or feature a complex edge based on the blade to be sharpened. All things considered, here’s a rundown of the 4 main kinds of sharpening stones out there.

Oil sharpening stones

These are the traditional sharpening stones that many people in the West grew up using. They’re made from one of these materials: Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Carbide, or Novaculite and utilize oil for metal filing (swarf) removal.

The most common oil sharpening stones are Novaculite natural stones. They’re mined in Arkansas and used to make what are known as Arkansas stones. Arkansas stones come in different grades based on the density and finish the stone creates on a blade.

Washita is the coarsest grade and isn’t used often today as it’s very soft. Hard Arkansas, Hard Translucent Arkansas, Hard Black Arkansas, and Soft Arkansas are the finer grades. These oil stones often cut slower than synthetic stones but can leave a polished edge. Hard Translucent Arkansas and Hard Black Arkansas are rarer and therefore costlier.

Silicon Carbide oil stones are the fastest when it comes to cutting. Those manufactured by Norton are known as Crystolon stones. Silicon Carbide stones are also graded as coarse, medium, and fine, and are usually grey in color.

While Silicone Carbide stones won’t produce a fine edge like natural or India stones will, the fast cutting ability makes them perfect for the initial coarse sharpening. As they sharpen fast, it’s ideal to use coarse Crystolon stones, followed by a fine India stone, and finally an Arkansas stone.

Before getting to know about oil stones, bear in mind that they’re the slowest cutters of all sharpening stones. And due to oil, it’s very difficult to clear out the swarf after use.

Water sharpening stones

Water stones come in natural and synthetic forms, but synthetic varieties are more common. While water stones are comparatively newer in the market, they’ve become very popular these days. Moreover, sharpening experts consider them one of the best sharpening stones.

They’re very easy to use and come in different grit levels. They only need to be soaked in water for around 5-15 minutes before use.

Like India stones, man-made water stones are made from Aluminum Oxide. But there’s a difference between the two. As water stones are the softer of the two, they cut faster than India stones.

Water stones are easier to clean as well, and won’t leave oil residue on tools. Owing to the increased use of water for sharpening and improved performance, many people now sharpen their kitchen knives and other household tools with water stones.

However, water stones require maintenance and they become brittle when soaked in water.

Diamond stones are fast becoming the most popular sharpening stones and are now the go-to option for many experts and chefs. They’re made of synthetic diamonds attached to a metal plate in a process known as electroplating. The diamond bits are implanted in nickel plating, giving them their incredible durability.

Diamond stones work extremely fast, are very durable, and will sharpen anything with a blade quickly, including stainless steel, ceramic, and high carbon knives.

Diamond stones can come with both an interrupted and solid surface. They quickly remove steel, require minimal maintenance, and are unlikely to be worn out by the average user.

Diamond stones usually have perforated surfaces to hold ground metal (swarf), but some models don’t have that. They’re also available in a variety of grades and abrasion levels.

The key benefits of diamond stones are that they sharpen very fast and keep their flat shape more easily than any stone, which may become hollowed or curved because of the sharpening process.

Ceramic stones have a different quality as they’re synthetic. They’re made from extremely tough materials and thus are long-lasting. They can be used without water or oil. In fact, using water or oil is optional.

Ceramic stones require a higher maintenance level as they can very easily break. As with other stones, you need to clean them after every use. Most people don’t know much about ceramic stones. And as they’re very tough, they’re usually used in the refining or honing stages of sharpening.

If you are just starting out these might not be the best choice for a first sharpening stone. However, if you are curious you can see what is available on Amazon by Clicking Here.

Summary of the types of sharpening stones

Different blades require different sharpening stones, which come with an array of grit levels. If you’ve never used a sharpening stone before, you can begin with man-made water stones or pick your own stone. But be sure to choose the right stone for your blade. Happy sharpening!

Check out reviews and see prices on all the types of sharpening stones on Amazon Click Here.

​Blacksmithing is a hobby that is growing in popularity all over the world, as people develop a new interest in exploring this ancient art form and learning to work and shape metal with their hands. It’s a fantastic way to develop a deeper understanding of the art and science of metalworking, and to make things that you can enjoy for years to come.

If you have an interest in taking up blacksmithing, but don’t know where to begin, a beginner kit is a great investment in the first set of tools and equipment you need to become a blacksmith. A beginner blacksmith kit gives you everything you need to get started, in a complete, convenient package. Just add a hard flat object to hit stuff on (really any piece of steel will do fine to start) and a way to heat the metal (check out some easy to make forges here) They also make great gifts for aspiring blacksmiths. Here are some of the best beginner blacksmith kits.

Each one offers a different set of items from just basic hammers to including tongs and safety gear. Have a look an choose the one that fits what you need to get started.

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Goplus Tools 5-Piece Blacksmith Hammer Kit

This beginner blacksmith hammer set from Goplus is a complete set of hammers for different purposes. The set includes:

• 2 ball pein hammers for reshaping metal surfaces, riveting, and rounding edges of metal pins and fasteners
• 1 rubber mallet for shaping mortar beds, or working with wood, soft metal, or tiles
• 1 sledgehammer for small demolition jobs like breaking concrete and drywall or for driving stakes
• 1 cross pein hammer for shaping and bending unhardened metal, or for shaping brick and stone blocks

The heads are made of forged, polished steel for strength and durability. The handles are made of fibreglass, with solid cores that absorb vibration and shock and reduce fatigue. The handles are covered with non-slip plastic and have rubber grips for a lasting, secure hold.

These hammers have great grip and shock absorption that let you to work comfortably for long periods and are an excellent size and weight for maximum efficiency.

Whitlox Hammer & Tongs Blacksmith Starter Kit

The Hammer & Tongs Blacksmith Starter Kit from Whitlox is a 6-item bundle great for the beginning blacksmith, with high-quality tools that will be used for years to come. The set comes with:

• A Chicago Electric leather apron designed to protect you and your clothes from hot sparks. It has four pockets to keep your tools and supplies close at hand, neck and waist straps for a comfortable fit, and double-stitched seams for durability
• A steel brush with a long, easy-grip handle and durable steel bristles perfect for knocking off scale.
• A Kseibi cross pein hammer made of high-carbon steel with high hardness and a durable wooden handle. This hammer has a size and weight meant to reinforce good form and reduce vibration and fatigue.
• Western Safety clear safety glasses for rugged eye protection.
• Whitlox 16-inch wolf jaw tongs sized to grab and hold many sizes and shapes of stock. These tongs grip securely both end-on and cross-way, and are sturdy and lightweight. The ball ends provide grip and ease of use. These tongs are well-designed and versatile, ideal for beginner blacksmiths who don’t have a different pair of tongs for every purpose.
• Natural beeswax to provide a professional finishing touch to forged pieces. Beeswax closes the pores in metal, protecting it from water that can lead to corrosion and rust, and also provides a natural, attractive, slightly glossy finish.

With the basics of safety gear, the two most important tools, and even finishing brushes and beeswax, this set is a great start for a beginner blacksmith to work their first metal from beginning to end. Despite being a beginner kit, the components are rugged and durable, high-quality and designed to last for years to come.

Grant Tools 8-Piece Blacksmith Tool Kit

This 8-piece starter blacksmith tool kit from Grant Tools has everything a beginner blacksmith needs, packed into one compact, rugged case that will keep your shop organized or travel easily to a work site. The kit includes:

• A 32-ounce ball pein hammer, ideal for rivets, shaping metal, and rounding edges on pins and fasteners.
• A 32-ounce rubber mallet, soft enough to prevent damage when working with soft metals, wood, and tile
• A 3-pound sledgehammer that easily handles light construction and demolition jobs like breaking concrete and drywall, or for driving stakes
• A 3-pound cross pein hammer that is great for shaping and bending metal, or for shaping stone and masonry
• A set of files, with a flat-file, a half-round file, and a triangle file for filing, sharpening, and grinding metals
• Safety glasses to protect your eyes while you work

The tools have comfortable, shock-absorbing handles and are built for durability. And Grant Tools supports Extend the Day, and for each blacksmith tool kit purchased, they donate one solar-powered reading light to a child in need.

A beginner blacksmithing tool kit is a fantastic way to start a blacksmithing hobby, taking some of the guesswork out of buying all the tools, supplies, and equipment you need to start enjoying the satisfaction of working with metal.

Over time, as a person builds skill and expertise, or as projects get more complex, it is natural to gain a greater understanding of which tools are best for your work and your needs, and to start purchasing (or even making) more advanced, customized tools. But this understanding often only comes with time and experience, and in the beginning,  you have to start somewhere.

These kits will put any beginner blacksmith off on the right foot, with the basic tools and equipment they need to get started with blacksmithing and metallurgy.

See the best selling (and I think the best overall) beginner blacksmith kit on Amazon and read the reviews to see why by Clicking Here.

More Guides By Me:

Want to learn how to forge your first knife? Check out my beginners guide

Looking to improve your skills or learn new projects? See the Best Blacksmithing Books I use.

Completely new to Blacksmithing and want to know what the tools and equipment you need are?

-THE STAY AT HOME DAD

If you are interested in the ancient art of smithing, and want to try it yourself, or simply learn more about it, it can be difficult to know where to start. If you already have some experience in blacksmithing, you may want more insights into projects and techniques that might be new to you.

In any case, a blacksmith book is an excellent way to learn more about the art, science, and craft of blacksmithing. Here are 6 of the best blacksmithing books for beginners and even for more advanced smiths.

1. New Edge of the Anvil: A Resource Book for the Blacksmith

The second section of the book features the work of six contemporary metal artists, with demonstration pieces and profiles. While this may seem more like an art showcase section, it is incredibly valuable to show how different artists are exploring techniques, processes, and materials that you may not have thought of. Even if you don’t like the art, it’s a source of inspiration and new ideas.

For readers with some experience, this initial section may seem too basic and too conceptual, lacking in hands-on exercises. But it is an excellent foundation for newcomers, with a wealth of data and reference material that will be useful for years. Click here to see more reviews and current pricing on Amazon.

2. The Art of Blacksmithing

This book gives a rich historical context to modern blacksmithing, told visually as well as verbally. It’s helpful for those who are looking to set up their first blacksmithing shop, or backyard forge, and understanding not just what they need, but why. This is one of the best blacksmith books for beginners especially. Head to Amazon to read more reviews and see current pricing.

3. A Blacksmithing Primer: A Course in Basic and Intermediate Blacksmithing

It’s a reference manual offering a practical introduction for beginner and intermediate blacksmiths to learn the skills and procedures of smithing and metallurgy and apply them to your own projects, and the spiral binding makes it great for keeping open on the workbench and referring to as you progress. ​See more reviews and the current price on Amazon.

4. Blacksmithing: Hot Techniques & Striking Projects

When the techniques are combined, beginners can take on more advanced blacksmithing projects like door handles and metal railings. It’s a great way to get first-hand experience and start showing off your new blacksmithing skills. To read more reviews and grab a copy on Amazon click here.

José Antonio Ares also has another  book “Blacksmithing Techniques: The Basics Explained Step by Step, Complete with 10 Projects”

5. The Complete Modern Blacksmith

The book contains step-by-step instructions and illustrations that will help you make your own custom tools and hardware, including pliers, shovels, and hinges. Learn how to repair and recycle old materials, following simple steps to restore and reuse old tools and implements. Or design your own custom tools with basic equipment and scrap steel, tools that are completely unique to your projects and your needs.

For blacksmiths who have struggled to find the right tools for their needs, or who have damaged their tools with use, or who want to restore old, classic tools, this volume is invaluable. The spiral binding allows it to lay flat for quick and easy reference on the tool bench, and learning these skills will save you money on tools and implements that you could be repairing yourself or making from scratch. You can read more reviews and pick up your copy of this essential reference on Amazon.

6. The Backyard Blacksmith

It is focused on giving step-by-step, detailed instructions on how to make simple tools and useful items like nails, hinges, and handles, as well as more ornamental and creative projects like letter openers, racks, and door knockers. Author Lorelei Sims is famous for her organic and botanical themed metal work, and her own techniques are illustrated in this book. It bridges the gap between blacksmithing for practical needs and objects, and metal working as an art form and vehicle for creative expression.

The focus on projects and processes that are accessible for the beginner blacksmith in a home shop makes it a good place to for a new blacksmith to polish their basic skills, and then begin to branch out and explore their own creativity. Click here to check the current price on Amazon and read more reviews.

Conclusion

If I had to choose one It would have to be The Backyard Blacksmith. Simple explanations and the projects go from easy to hard in a logical manner. I keep a copy within reach while I work at the forge (but not too close!) so i can reference techniques as I go.

Blacksmithing is an ancient skill that is enjoying a modern resurgence, as more and more people are interested in not simply purchasing poor-quality products that are destined for the landfill in a few years, but in making their own, high-quality, heirloom pieces that are built to last. It’s a fantastic way to grow creatively, make your own custom tools and objects, and share your skills with the world. These books are a great way to begin the journey, by explaining the basics of blacksmithing and metallurgy, and showing how these ancient crafts are practiced today.

I’ve written a few other guides if you are looking for more information before jumping into buying a book on it:

• Types of Blacksmithing Hammers and Their Uses
• A Guide to Blacksmith Tools For Beginners
• ​Buying Blacksmith Tools
• How to Forge Your First Knife

-THE STAY AT HOME DAD

​When it comes to forging a knife, heat is a critical factor in determining how easy it will be to work the steel as well as the quality of the final product you’ll end up with. Hot, consistent temperatures in your forge is a necessity, and the fuel source that you choose helps determine that temperature as well as your cost of forging and more.

Of the various fuel types available, the primary 3 to choose from are lump coal, propane, and charcoal. Depending on the availability of the fuel, the forge you are using, and the local laws governing your workshop, there may be an ideal option for you to consider. However, if you’re unsure or are just starting out, consider charcoal – the fuel you can make yourself.

What Determines the Temperature Charcoal Burns At?

As heat is incredibly important to the forging process, it makes sense that the fuel you choose needs to burn hot enough to get the blade to critical temperature so that it can be shaped, annealed, and hardened. However, unlike fuels such as propane, charcoal can come in various compositions that determine its burning efficacy, and it also needs an exceptional amount of air to allow it to reach the necessary temperature.

Air Availability

In order to produce fire and extreme heat, combustion needs to occur between oxygen, the fuel source, and something to ignite it such as friction or another heat source. Once the fuel reaches ignition temperature, combustion occurs and it burns on its own as long as it has oxygen and fuel for combustion. You can also increase the air availability, increasing the rate of combustion and leading to more heat being released by the burning charcoal.

To introduce more air to your forge, you have some options. First, you want to make sure you have proper ventilation so that the air in the forge is rich in oxygen rather than smoky and inefficient. Once your ventilation is cleared, you can add more air with a hairdryer for smaller forges, a bellow for larger forges, and custom air blowers for the largest of forges.

Composition of the Charcoal

Charcoal comes in primarily 2 different forms: lump charcoal and charcoal briquettes. In general, briquettes are used for cooking due to the odorless burn and ability to flavor what you’re cooking depending on the wood used for the base of the charcoal.

Meanwhile, charcoal is used where more extreme heat is needed because the absence of the other ingredients allows for more fuel to burn. Lump charcoal comes from burning wood, making it entirely charcoal as opposed to briquettes of charcoal which are a combination of char, coal, nitrates, lime, and starch.

Based on this information, it is hard to determine exactly how hot the charcoal you may use could get in your forge. As a general rule, you want the steel you’re working to reach about 2,000-2,200°F to be malleable. Meanwhile, lump charcoal is believed to be able to reach temperatures of about 2,000°F at its upper range – which explains why it’s crucial you use lump coal instead of briquettes.

Should I Use Charcoal for My Forge?

When it comes to choosing the fuel source for your forge, the choice is primarily up to you as any of the 3 primary fuel sources can work for some applications. However, each has their own pros and cons – charcoal included.

One of the major benefits of choosing charcoal is its availability as well as low cost. You can make lump charcoal yourself by burning wood until it chars, making it both easily renewable and inexpensive if you’ve got extra firewood or trees around. Here is a quick video that shows the process of how to make your own charcoal (it’s very simple) 

Unfortunately, depending on the composition of the charcoal, it can struggle to reach and maintain the necessary temperature needed to make the steel for your knife malleable. This means that if you want to use charcoal, you will need to use pure lump charcoal as opposed to briquettes. Additionally, it takes more charcoal to reach and maintain hotter temperatures than coal or propane – the other choices for fuel.

The Verdict

Charcoal is often considered the lesser of the 3 fuel choices for your forge due to its lower burning temperature. Steel needs to be heated to upwards of 2,000°F in order to be forged, but charcoal can struggle to reach that in some cases which makes it a bit too unreliable for many blacksmiths. However, that is not to say that charcoal can’t be used – it just depends on your specific use case.

I own use both charcoal and propane forges and for some projects that need really high heat or forge welding temps I will usually use my propane forge.

However for small jobs with mild steel (hooks, nails, garden projects, etc..) I’ll use my whitlox charcoal forge. It’s cheap to run easy to use and MUCH quieter than my propane forge.

Smaller forges and those who smith multiple metals (with lower critical temperatures) may be able to make charcoal work for them and given the availability of the fuel (and your ability to make it yourself), it is quite beginner and budget-friendly. It won’t hurt to give charcoal a try, and if it works for you then you’ve got a low-cost, renewable fuel. If not, just choose coal or propane for your next forging.

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charcoal

-THE STAY AT HOME DAD

There is perhaps no more important tool for a blacksmith than their hammer. It’s the iconic instrument of the craft, and we always envision blacksmiths wielding a hammer over an anvil. 

The truth is, blacksmiths rely on many different hammers, for different purposes, and every blacksmith has a range of hammers for the job at hand. Here are some of the most common hammers used in blacksmithing, and what they are used for.

Cross Peen (Pein) Hammer

The cross peen or cross pein hammer is the hammer most commonly used by blacksmiths and metalworkers. A cross peen hammer has the wedge end of the head (the peen) angled horizontally relative to the handle. This wedged peen at a flat angle allows a blacksmith to hammer in compact, small spaces that are too restricted and precise for the full, flat head of the hammer.

Cross peen hammers are particularly used in riveting. They are ideal for spreading, and the hammer can simply be flipped from the flat end of the head to the wedge end of the head when more precision is needed.

The KSEIBI 271450 Cross Pein Hammer

The KSEIBI 271450 Cross Pein Hammer at 2.2 pounds is a classic blacksmith’s hammer. It has a polished face, bevel, and pein. The fiber glass handle withstands stress and strain, with superior breaking tolerance designed for tough work.

The head is permanently bonded to the handle with epoxy, and will not loosen over time. The head is made of forged steel. The high-strength fiberglass handle core absorbs shock and vibration and reduces fatigue. And it has a rubberized grip for secure holding, hour after hour. The 2.2 pound weight is great for a range of blacksmithing tasks, with enough weight to pound and shape metal, but not so heavy that it causes fatigue. If you are thinking of buying blacksmithing hammers these are the first ones to think about, you will use them every day.

Straight Peen (Pein) Hammer

A straight peen or straight pein hammer has the wedge shape of the peen running vertically, parallel to the line of the handle. As with the cross peen hammer, it is used for drawing and shaping metals in precise, specific areas that are tighter than allowed by the flat head of the hammer. They are also particularly used in riveting.

Most blacksmiths prefer to stick with a cross peen hammer, and simply rotate the work to the needed angle, rather than switching to a straight peen hammer. But some blacksmiths prefer straight peen hammers, or alternate between the two hammers depending on the angle and precision needed.

The Bon RiverWorks 12451 27-306 Straight Pen Driving Hammer

The Bon RiverWorks 12451 27-306 Straight Pen Driving Hammer is an excellent choice for blacksmiths who prefer a straight peen. It has crowned striking faces with beveled edges, and is made in the USA of hand forged steel. It has a sturdy wooden handle. It weighs 3.9 pounds, so it brings plenty of strength and power to almost any sledging operation.

Rounding Hammer

Rounding hammers were traditionally used by farriers, but recent years have seen them surge in popularity among blacksmiths. As the name might imply, they have one flat face and one rounded face. The round face allows you to draw steel faster than with a flat faced hammer, so you can use a single hammer for drawing and smoothing.

Used properly, they are versatile hammers and take the place of other, more specialized hammers. The more balanced, symmetrical weight of a rounding hammer appeals to some blacksmiths, who find it easier to use, and is disliked by others, who prefer to have the flat surface weighted a bit more heavily, as in a cross peen hammer.

Many popular YouTube blacksmiths use rounding hammers, which may be the cause of their surge in visibility as blacksmithing hammers.

Nordic Forge 2 Lb. Rounding Hammer

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The Nordic Forge 2 Lb. Rounding Hammer is a classic rounding hammer, designed for farriers since 1906. It has one round, crowned face, and one flat face. Both faces are beveled to reduce chipping. The handle is hard wood. The hammer is perfectly balanced, and weighs 2 pounds, perfect for a wide range of blacksmithing jobs.

Swedish Blacksmith Hammers

Swedish blacksmith hammers are a local variation of cross peen hammers. They have a much narrower, more dramatic wedge, that helps create deep, smooth cuts in metal while putting a lot of weight behind the flat face.

The Picard 0000811-1500 Swedish Pattern Blacksmith’s Hammer

The Picard 0000811-1500 Swedish pattern blacksmith’s hammer is a great example of this design, with a handle made of ash wood. Ash is a very symbolic wood in Norse mythology, known for its strength and durability. This hammer weighs 3.7 pounds, bringing plenty of power to every strike.

French Blacksmith Hammers

French hammers are cross peen hammers with a distinctive offset on the wedge side. It is said that this hammer shape was specifically invented for working on the unique curved metals and construction of the Eiffel tower. This unusual shape is preferred by some blacksmiths, as it improves their line of sight to the work, and disliked by others, as it changes the weight distribution of the hammer.

The Picard 0001601-0800 Locksmith’s Hammer

The Picard 0001601-0800 Locksmith’s hammer has that distinctive French shape, with a handle made of ash wood. This hammer weighs just 1.76 pounds, making it great for small, precise jobs.

Notes on the Weight of a Hammer 

As you can see, the hammers on this list range from weighing less than 2 pounds to weighing nearly 4. A heavier hammer is faster and more efficient, but a blacksmith should never use a hammer that is heavier than they can wield with control. While weight is a matter of personal preference, it is usually recommended that beginners start with a lighter hammer, because even a light hammer can start to feel very heavy after an hour of use.

Over time, a blacksmith will not only build the arm strength they need to use heavy hammers for long periods of time, but they will develop greater skill and confidence that lets them use a heavier hammer with the same amount of control.

Conclusion

Now you know what the most common blacksmithing hammers are, and what they are used for, you can make the choice that is best for your comfort and your metalworking needs.

-THE STAY AT HOME DAD