DIY Forge Burner: Complete Parts List & Build Guide


Building your own forge burner is a rite of passage for many blacksmiths. It’s a great way to understand the mechanics of combustion and save a few bucks in the process. However, a word of warning: Unless you already have most of these parts in your junk drawer, it is often cheaper and safer to buy a pre-built burner.

If you’re dead-set on the DIY path, here is the exact manifest I used for my “Venting” style burner.

The DIY Parts Manifest

Core Plumbing

  • 1-1/4” Coupling: The main air intake body.
  • 1-1/4” x 3/4” Bushing: Connects the intake to the tube.
  • 3/4” x 9” Nipple: The main burner tube.
  • 1-1/2” x 3/4” Reducer: Acts as the “flare” at the end of the burner.

Gas Injection

  • .023” MIG Tip: The tiny orifice that injects the propane.
  • 1/8” Brass “T”: Connects your gas line to the MIG tip assembly.
  • 1/8” x 3” Lamp Nipple: Used to center the MIG tip in the air stream.
  • 1/4” Ball Valve: Your emergency and fine-tune gas shutoff.

If you value your time (and your eyebrows), I highly recommend this pre-built unit. It’s what I use in my secondary forge and it has never let me down.

$65.00

High-Pressure Propane Forge Burner Kit

4.8/5

A complete, ready-to-run burner assembly. Includes a 0-30 PSI regulator, 4ft hose, and stainless steel burner head.

> Stainless Steel
> 0-30 PSI Regulator
> Ready to Use
> High-Efficiency Venturi

Essential Tools for the Build

You can’t just slap this together with a pair of pliers. You’ll need:

  • M6 Tap & 5mm Drill Bit: For threading the MIG tip assembly.
  • 1/8” NPT Tap: For the brass fittings.
  • JB KwikWeld: To seal the MIG tip into the lamp nipple.
  • High-Temp Gas Tape: Use ONLY the yellow tape rated for gas. Never use white Teflon tape on gas lines.

Assembly Logic

The goal is to create a Venturi effect. The high-pressure propane shooting through the tiny .023” hole creates a vacuum that pulls in air through the 1-1/4” coupling.

  1. Centering is Key: The MIG tip must be perfectly centered in the 3/4” tube. If it’s off-center, your flame will be “lopsided” and inefficient.
  2. The Flare: The reducer at the end allows the gas to expand slightly, which helps stabilize the flame and prevents it from “blowing out.”

Building your own Forge?

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If you like building your own tools, check out our other DIY guides and builds.